What Will Humans Eat in 2050?
Folks will be eating a lot more fish in 2050, if the predictions of new research are accurate. The study’s authors estimate global fish consumption by midcentury will increase nearly 80 percent and the total weight of the world’s fish harvest as it comes from the water – shells, guts, bones and all – may nearly double. A confluence of factors that include population growth and local changes in affordability, trade and culture are behind the projected increases.
It wouldn’t be the first time people’s preferences have changed: poultry, for example, has already become a “major substitute for beef in global diets,” says lead study author Rosamond Naylor, the William Wrigley Professor of Earth System Science at Stanford University. While consumption per capita of beef has declined since the 1960s, that of seafood has more than doubled and poultry has increased five-fold. “We have a tremendous opportunity to bring species to market that are both environmentally sustainable and nutritious,” said Naylor. It remains to be seen, however, whether people’s tastes will change enough to boost demand for these creatures.
Back at the waterfront in Santa Barbara, where years earlier the Saturday Fishermen's Market shrunk to two vendors and faced closure, one person took this challenge to heart. Biologist Kim Selkoe, Ph.D., director of the Commercial Fishermen of Santa Barbara (CSF), spearheaded a revival by ramping up advertising, applying for grants and enticing more vendors.
Get Hooked is the initiative she founded with Victoria Voss, two bad-ass women who know the value of making healthy food tasty, convenient, and fun for our families. Their passion for local seafood and their shared ties to the Santa Barbara fishing community inspired this venture. Get Hooked is a community-supported fishery that, like a marine farm share, provides more than 270 subscribers with a weekly portion of local, seasonal fish – the epitome of ecological eating.
The CSF's mission is as much educational as culinary, providing information and recipes with each week's share. "The idea is to allow people to feel confident buying fish that they wouldn't know anything about, or that they're not sure they're going to like," Selkoe explains. "As the ocean changes, we want to be the shepherds who make local seafood work – and expand people's palates."
Sampling widely from the sea makes sense even in the best of times, says Kate Masury, Eating with the Ecosystem's director. Dietary diversity keeps food webs balanced by not encouraging the overfishing of any single species and provides fishermen fair prices for abundant but obscure catches like dogfish.
Climate change only accentuates the importance of expanding our horizons. "We can help both our fishing communities and wild populations by going with the flow, eating the species that are available rather than putting pressure on the ones already having a harder time," says Masury.
If our seafood systems are to survive climate change, we consumers will have to overcome our parochialism – to harken back to a past when we ate fish as adventurously as we do vegetables. We'll have to learn to appreciate what the sea spits out, no matter how spiny or odd-shaped or under-the-radar.
