Jellyfish, Anyone? Warming Oceans Will Change What We Eat
There is no better place to ogle California seafood in all its bizarre bounty than the Santa Barbara harbor on a Saturday morning. Vendors line City Pier alongside bobbing boats with names like New Hazard and Fishin' Mission, their booths thronged by customers speaking a half-dozen languages.
However, climate change is heating our oceans and reshuffling its inhabitants around the world. The earth's oceans act as vast sponges, swallowing up around 90 percent of our atmosphere's excess heat from global warming and up to 35 percent of the greenhouse gasses attributed to humans - carbon dioxide we emit when we drive to work, fly off on vacation, run our dryers or perform life's other mundane, energy-intensive tasks.
This rearranging extends from the dock to our plates, as familiar fish face replacement by underutilized strangers. Will California restaurateurs swap out Dungeness crab for market squid? Can green crabs stand in for Maine lobster? Will tourists visiting Cape Cod dine on redfish rather than, well, cod? Will our palates keep pace with climate change, as shrimp, salmon and tilapia disappear from menus?
Aligning our diets with climate change will require us to approach the fish counter with an open mind. We might, for instance, learn to love jellyfish: hardy, fast-breeding opportunists that thrive in warmer waters and readily colonize overfished ecosystems.
Although prognostications of a global jelly takeover are based more on anecdote than data, a high-profile proliferation of the diaphanous creatures suggest a looming showdown. Jellyfish explosions have wiped out Norwegian salmon farms, fouled Israeli desalination plants and even clogged cooling systems aboard the USS Ronald Reagan during the aircraft carrier's maiden deployment.
If jellyfish are going to catch on, however, they'll have to conquer one major hurdle: our provincial taste in seafood. The U.S. is one of the world's most coastal nations, endowed with more than 95,000 miles of shoreline; yet our coastal abundance is largely disconnected from our plates. We export about a third of what we catch, even as we import more than 90 percent of the seafood we actually eat.
Shrimp, salmon and tilapia, most of it raised on foreign farms, dominate our diets, comprising almost half of our annual seafood consumption. "When it comes down to it, Americans just eat the same thing over and over again," says Bun Lai, the James Beard-nominated chef at Miya's Sushi in New Haven, Connecticut, who's known for serving invasive species.
On the plate, jellyfish are a completely foreign concept to many Americans, while they've long been a staple in some Asian cuisines. Danish researchers have rendered slices of the creature into crunchy wafers, a snack likened to potato chips, while closer to home, cannonball jellyfish, known locally as "jellyballs," now support Georgia's third-largest commercial fishery.
Although nearly all of the cannonball jellyfish are exported to Asia, some Atlanta chefs are experimenting with frying and braising the blobs. "They're mostly protein and collagen and low in calories," says Lai, who has incorporated jellyballs into a sushi roll called the Peanut Butter and Jelly.
And, YES, it also contains peanut butter!
